Dispatches: Good Friday Pilgrimages in New Mexico

A group of people standing around three wooden crosses on a rocky hillside.
Good Friday, Tomé Hill, Stations of the Cross, 1976.
Courtesy of Los Lunas Museum of Heritage and Arts

New Mexico has several well-known Easter pilgrimage sites reflecting its Hispano-Catholic roots. While Chimayó may be the most famous, it’s worth mentioning Tomé Hill, south of Albuquerque, and Mount Cristo Rey in Sunland Park, NM.

Tomé Hill

Tomé Hill is a high point about 30 miles south of Albuquerque in Valencia County on the east side of the Rio Grande River and five miles southeast of Los Lunas. The prominent high spot has attracted travelers for thousands of years and was once a major landmark along El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. Petroglyphs (rock art) along the route speak to even earlier significance as a possible spiritual site for Native and early Hispano peoples. The current Christian pilgrimage tradition started as a passion play in Tomé Plaza in 1948 and later evolved into a procession and ascent up Tomé Hill with members of the Hermanos Penitentes (Penitent Brotherhood), a lay Catholic fraternity, carrying and then erecting a cross on the summit. Today, visitors can see from below several crosses that dominate the summit view, hike to the top, or participate in the Good Friday pilgrimage.

Steel arch sculpture with steel sculpture people and animal figures in front of the arch and a desert hill in the background.
La Puerta del Sol, Cor-Ten steel sculpture by Armando Alvarez at the foot of Tomé Hill, NM.

Learn more:
https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/new-mexico-el-cerro-de-tome.htm

Los Lunas Museum of Heritage and Arts has nearly 60 images from the 1970s online: https://nmdigital.unm.edu/digital/collection/loslunas/search/searchterm/tome%20hill/page/2

Mount Cristo Rey

On the far southern border with Mexico, in Sunland, NM, Sierra de Cristo Rey, or Mount Cristo Rey, is home to a 29-foot-tall limestone statue of Christ with his arms outstretched on a cross. The mountain straddles the US and Mexico border and serves as a pilgrimage site for thousands who travel from El Paso, TX, Southern New Mexico, and Chihuahua, Mexico. To reach the statue at the top, pilgrims ascend a 2.2-mile gravel path. The monument was constructed in 1939 by sculptor Urbici Soler, who donated his time and money to fund a large part of the construction. The cross has been continuously standing and maintained by volunteers since October 29, 1939. New Mexico, Texas, and Chihuahua, Mexico are all visible from the top.

Learn more:
http://www.mtcristorey.com/

This 2018 YouTube video provides a great visual: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Urpg0g0uVUs

Tomé Hill is open year-round, and Mount Cristo Rey is open on a limited basis for special events, but they are both abuzz with the faithful, as well as the curious, during annual Good Friday pilgrimages. If you have walked either route or know of other pilgrimage sites in New Mexico, let us know!

Black and white image of a crowd of people in the parking lot of a church with one man holding a large wooden cross over his shoulder.
Arrival at the Santuario, 1996. Photograph by Sam Howarth. Neg. no. HP.2024.14.14. POG/NMHM.

If you’re in Santa Fe be sure you see our new exhibition opening April 12, Chimayó: A Tradition of Faith to learn more about the state’s largest and most known pilgrimage site: https://nmhistorymuseum.org/exhibition/details/6558/chimayo-a-tradition-of-faith

Mark Dodge
Curator of Southwest Memories
Mark.Dodge@dca.nm.gov

Dispatches from the Curator of Southwest Memories

Nine Eagle Scout boys and two men in uniforms pose for a group photo with a female camp counselor holding a sign for the Philmont Scout Ranch.
Memory-making at Philmont Scout Ranch. Mark Dodge, Curator of Southwest Memories, is in the back row, third from right.

My first memory of New Mexico is from a trip to Philmont Scout Ranch when I was 17 years old. I rode the train from Michigan to attend a week-long high adventure backpacking trip, where I encountered bears and rattlesnakes. My experience on that trip created a positive, lasting memory and is a part of my personal story.

How do you define memories? Maybe as recollections or ideas of the past? Something that happened to you, or something you heard from others? A remembered experience, interesting factoid, or emotional response? Or all the above? Memories are often ethereal in quality and our own labeling as “good” or “bad” may change and evolve through time. The memories we carry form the basis of our personal histories and shape our views about the world and our place in it. Therefore, it makes sense to share and discuss memories in a museum, since we’re filled with them. Hopefully the museum is fertile ground to create new ones too. 

I’m interested in the people-centered work of building community, so I plan to keep these ideas in mind while exploring the diverse stories from New Mexico. I’m new here, and I’m curious to soak up the stories of my new home. This blog is a forum to share behind-the-scenes research, conversations, and interesting and memorable content. It’ll be informal with links from around the state that celebrate all things New Mexico. I plan to learn from you, too, and welcome your ideas and resources.

My name is Mark and I’m the new Curator of Southwest Memories. I want to hear your memories from the Land of Enchantment, and I look forward to sharing the unique and fascinating stories I learn with you.

Cheers,

Mark Dodge, Curator of Southwest Memories, Mark.Dodge@dca.nm.gov.

A bison in a barn reaches out to lick a Caucasian man smiling beside the barn window.
Memory-making with Clyde, New Mexico’s most famous animal actor, at Mortenson’s-Eaves Movie Ranch.

Today in History

President Abraham Lincoln was born on this day in 1809.

The Library does not have any archival material from the 16th president*, so instead today we’re sharing the stories behind his namesakes in New Mexico.

Map of the Territory of New Mexico

Lincoln County was created by the territorial legislature in 1869 to honor the president. It was originally much larger than today (see pink county in the middle of the map). Chavez, Eddy and Otero Counties were carved out of it, reducing it to its current size today.

The town of Lincoln, formerly known as La Placita Del Rio Bonito, was one of the largest towns in the region that became Lincoln County. It was the county seat until the county offices were moved to Carrizozo in 1909. Lincoln county came to fame/ infamy with the Lincoln County Wars, 1878-1881.

Lincoln Forest Reserve, named for the town and county (both of which were named after the president, so we’re including it) was created in 1902, and renamed “Lincoln National Forest” in 1918.

For more information check out Lincoln Historic Site

*If you have something of President Lincoln’s and are interested in donating, please email us (historylibrary@state.nm.us)

Information from “Place Names of New Mexico” by Robert Julyan.

Book cover of “The Place Names of New Mexico” by Robert Julyan

NM Rep Deb Haaland nominated to be the first Native American Presidential Cabinet Member

Photo: Deb Haaland in front of U.S. Capitol Building, January 4, 2019
Photo by: Tom Williams/CQ Roll Call via Getty Images

U.S. Rep. Deb Haaland, of New Mexico’s First Congressional District, is nominated to lead the U.S. Department of the Interior!

Gov. Michelle Lujan Grisham issued the following statement upon reports that President-elect Joe Biden will nominate U.S. Rep. Deb Haaland:

“This is an historic day for New Mexico and for the United States of America. This is a proud day for indigenous peoples everywhere, not least in New Mexico. Rep. Deb Haaland is a woman of integrity, tenacity and heart. She is a leader, a fighter and a tireless advocate. A proud daughter of Laguna Pueblo, she has made it her life’s work to represent and deliver for not only her home and her people but the interests of everyone – she stands for all New Mexicans, for a just and equitable society and a better future for all of us. And now she will represent New Mexico on the national stage, and I am so incredibly proud to know her as a colleague and as a friend. I hope all New Mexicans will join me in congratulating Deb, and her family, and in thanking the president-elect for his vote of confidence in one of our state’s most dedicated champions. I greatly look forward to working with a Secretary Haaland on the issues that matter deeply to our tribes and pueblos and to all New Mexicans.”

On Juneteenth

Frederick Douglass, abolitionist, formerly enslaved, engraving by Barry Moser (Pennyroyal Press, 2020)

Slavery was formerly abolished (again) in New Mexico by a Congressional act on June 19, 1862, which prohibited slavery in current and future US territories. This was prior to the more famous Emancipation Proclamation (issued September 22, 1862, enacted January 1, 1863), which was supposed to free the enslaved in ten Confederate states. And it was three years to the day before the first Juneteenth, June 19, 1865, when news of the Proclamation reached enslaved people in Galveston, Texas.

While in theory the 13th Amendment of 1865 and the Anti-Peonage Act of 1867 (which names New Mexico specifically) effectively made slavery and servitude illegal in the US, social and legal systems of discrimination, such as the Jim Crow laws, continued to oppress African Americans (and many other historically marginalized people). These systems only began to shift in response to the successes of the Civil Rights movements and the Great Society legislation of the 1960s.

New Mexico’s antislavery history is complex and centuries long. As part of the Spanish colonial empire, slavery was abolished here in 1512 and again in 1543, although African and Indigenous people continued to be widely enslaved throughout the Americas. In 1829, Mexico abolished slavery in its states and territories, including New Mexico (but excluding Texas). American occupation reopened these debates.

Historic Emancipation Day and Juneteenth celebrations have taken place in Roswell, Clovis, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque since at least the 1890s and include music, food, games, sports, and pageantry with attendees dressed in their finest clothes. Juneteenth has been a New Mexico state holiday since 2006, and it helps make visible our African American communities while celebrating the end of one phase of a significant part of our national history.

For more on this holiday and African American history in New Mexico, check out this 2019 episode from KUNM’s “Let’s Talk New Mexico.”